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La Casona del Molino: An authentic "Peña"

Casona del Molino

When people visit the city of Salta, one of the must-sees is a typical “peña folclórica”. Sadly, most of them are purely tourists traps which charge you an expensive cover charge and even some more for the dance and music show. However, if you ask any local, you will find out that La Casona del Molino is the best option to experience a real peña experience. This true classic of the “Saltenian” nightlife consists of a very old house with a central yard surrounded by many rooms.

The equation is very simple: delicious regional food and wine at fair prices with the addition of the improvised show the costumers perform with their own instruments. Guitars, drums, peruvian cajon, accordions and even violins have given this place a magical vibe nearly everynight for the past decades and it doesn’t look like it will stop anytime soon.

La Casona was originally built in the 1600’s and was used as a market (where the mill was originally placed), leather and handcrafts shops and even a supply warehouse during the Independence wars.
La Casona is open from Tuesday to Sunday both for lunch and dinner. It is recommended to book in advance, especially during high season and Thursday nights since this is the night the locals choose to enjoy and share a few drinks and music with friends.

The empanadas are one of the best in town but don’t forget to also taste the humitas, tamales and locro, only a few of the many delicacies from Northern Argentina’s cuisine. This peña also has a very nice regional wine list including the “Casonero”, specially made in La Viña for La Casona del Molino.

After your meal, enjoy some table talk while having some more drinks and you will realize that instruments start to blossom around you and the classic folclore songs shall come to your ears. Played by real fans, the songs of legends of the genre such as Cuchi Leguizamón, Los Chalchaleros and Los Fronterizos start to echo around the house which they themselves used to hang out at.
A night at La Casona del Molino is a great way to experience for yourself one of the most traditional night out in Salta through its food and music.